So after Mike Steinberger, writing in Slate’s new wine column, trashes Trader Joe’s “Two Buck Chuck,” he goes on to list some inexpensive greats that I’ve mostly not tried. While calling Salice Salentino “the world’s greatest pizza wine” could ignite quite a discussion, I can back him up so far as to say it’s quite nice with a good gourmet pie. But his apparent fascination with French wines is itself an impediment to finding great cheap wines. By my informal calculation, France’s brand equity in the wine world exacts a 20%-40% premium over, say, an Australian wine of similar quality. Plus, you know, dealing with the French still gives me a bit of a bad taste despite the fact that they were (I admit it) basically right about all that war stuff earlier this year.